Every day, the skin sheds approximately 30,000–40,000 dead skin cells. With age, stress, hormonal change and sun damage, this natural turnover slows, dead cells accumulate, pigmentation persists and the skin loses its clarity. Chemical peels accelerate the process deliberately and precisely.
The mechanism of a chemical peel
Chemical peels apply carefully selected acids at controlled concentrations to the skin surface, where they disrupt the bonds holding dead skin cells together. Depending on the acid type and concentration, this disruption occurs at different depths, from the very surface of the stratum corneum (superficial peels) to the upper dermis (medium depth peels). As the disrupted layers shed, the underlying skin, produced by the accelerated turnover triggered by the treatment, is fresher, more evenly pigmented and structurally improved.
At deeper levels, chemical peels also initiate a wound-healing response: the controlled chemical injury triggers collagen production and cellular renewal in the dermis, producing improvements in skin density and texture that extend beyond simple exfoliation.
Superficial peels: AHAs and BHAs
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): glycolic acid (from sugar cane), lactic acid (from milk), mandelic acid (from almonds), work within the epidermis to dissolve the bonds between dead cells at the skin surface. They are water-soluble, making them effective for surface pigmentation, dullness and texture irregularities.
Glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size of the AHAs, giving it the deepest penetration within the superficial peel category, making it the most potent AHA but also the one requiring the most care with skin type selection. Lactic acid is gentler and more appropriate for sensitive skin. Mandelic acid has antimicrobial properties that make it particularly suitable for acne-prone skin.
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs): salicylic acid, are lipid-soluble, meaning they penetrate into the sebaceous follicle rather than remaining at the skin surface. This makes them uniquely effective for acne, congestion and enlarged pores, they cleanse the interior of the follicle in a way that water-soluble AHAs cannot reach.
Medium depth peels: TCA
Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels penetrate into the superficial dermis, producing a more significant disruption and a more dramatic wound-healing response. The depth of penetration is controlled by concentration (typically 15–30% for medium depth application) and application technique. At medium depth, TCA addresses concerns that superficial peels cannot reach: established acne scarring, significant sun damage, moderate pigmentation and fine-to-moderate lines.
The TCA peel produces a 'frost' reaction on application, the skin turns white as the acid denatures surface proteins. This is the visible indicator of adequate penetration depth. Over the following 5–7 days, the treated skin darkens, tightens and then peels, revealing the fresher, remodelled skin beneath. Pre-treatment preparation with retinol and vitamin C for 4 weeks is recommended to condition the skin and improve the predictability of the peel response.
Choosing the right peel
The appropriate peel depends on the client's skin type (Fitzpatrick phototype), their primary concern, their tolerance for downtime and their skincare history. Darker skin types (Fitzpatrick IV–VI) require careful peel selection, TCA and high-concentration glycolic at full strength can cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in melanin-rich skin; mandelic, lactic and specially formulated blends are safer choices and produce excellent results.
A skin assessment before any peel treatment is not optional, it is the difference between a result and a complication. The consultation at Aesthetics Medispa establishes the starting point and selects the appropriate peel type, concentration and technique for your specific skin.
A note on at-home peels: Many skincare brands offer 'peel pads' and 'chemical exfoliants' for home use. These are typically formulated at concentrations safe enough to sell without professional supervision, meaning they are significantly less potent than clinical peels and produce proportionally more modest results. Clinical peels work. At-home products maintain results between clinical treatments.
Treatments that work. Results you can see.
Every treatment at Aesthetics Medispa begins with a thorough consultation, understanding your skin, your health and your goals before anything is recommended.